Casa Sirena Pererenan

The wall along the lane is built of pale coral stone with cacti at its foot, and set into it in blue script is the villa’s own name: Casa Sirena. An arched timber door opens past it onto stone steps that drop into the courtyard, and the whole palette shifts to something coastal and Mediterranean — limewashed walls, bleached timber, rattan, and turquoise on every cushion. The pool sits low in the courtyard with a built-in bench along one side and a pierced screen panel behind it, palms and heliconia crowding the walls. Beyond the water, a full-height wall of glass folds the living room and the garden into one room.

The ground floor runs living to dining to kitchen without a partition, under a raised white ceiling hung with rattan pendants. A low pale sofa faces the glass, coastal artwork sits above a run of open timber shelving, and a trestle table with rattan chairs marks where dining begins. The kitchen is pale timber with a stone counter and everything a fortnight would ask for, down to a rice cooker and a blender. What makes this floor unusual is the first bedroom, which sits directly off the living room behind its own sliding glass doors, so somebody can turn in early without the evening having to end.

An open-tread timber staircase with slim white balusters climbs to the second bedroom, hung with the same woven rattan discs on a limewashed headboard wall, and to the terrace that is the villa’s real surprise. Under an open timber pergola and behind a pierced breeze-block screen, an L-shaped sofa runs two sides of a stone-paved roof deck, with rattan drum tables, a round rattan daybed and a view over Pererenan’s tiled roofs and treetops. Both bedrooms have their own bathroom, each lined in petrol-blue zellige with a stone basin and an oval mirror, and one shower opens onto a small planted light-well floored in pebbles.

Casa Sirena sits inside The First Alaya, a small complex whose signage marks the entrance to the lane, and the villa is staffed rather than simply serviced. Cleaning happens daily, the pool and garden are tended two or three times a week, and the concierge team arranges transfers, a private cook, massages, a driver, a nanny, laundry and restaurant tables. This is the quiet northern end of the Canggu strip, where the rice fields still outnumber the cafés — Pererenan and Echo Beach are a short drive south, with Batu Bolong and Berawa beyond them.

Casa Sirena suits two couples, or a family of four, who would rather wake to rice fields than to traffic and still be twenty minutes from a good dinner. The split of one bedroom downstairs and one upstairs gives everybody their own corner, and the roof terrace is where the evenings end.