Villa Kamboja

Villa Kamboja belongs to an older, softer Seminyak than the concrete boxes now going up around it, and that is exactly its appeal. River stone clads the walls in grey and charcoal, timber-shingled roofs pitch steeply above the pavilions, and frangipani trees lean over a long pool edged with timber decking and a strip of real lawn.

The living pavilion is open on two sides beneath a high timber ceiling, furnished with a deep grey sofa, leather butterfly chairs and a solid timber dining table. Black-and-white surf photography hangs against the stone, and a woven pendant drops over the table. The kitchen behind it is compact but properly equipped, and the whole space stays cool through the middle of the day without air-conditioning.

Two bedrooms sit either side of the garden, each with its own stone-clad bathroom with twin basins and a walk-in shower. The staff here go further than most: they will do your grocery run and cook a simple breakfast at no extra charge, so you settle in rather than hunting for somewhere to eat on the first morning. Seminyak’s restaurants, beach clubs and the beach itself are all close.